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Dewakan

Kuala Lumpur

• The Best Restaurant in Malaysia 2022

Modern Malaysian dishes that celebrate the country’s indigenous roots

On the Pass

Darren Teoh

What makes it special? Dewakan is a portmanteau of the Malay words for ‘God’ and ‘food’, headlining the restaurant’s mission to honour the bounty and blessing given to the land. Chef Darren Teoh uses his dishes to express a deep connection to the indigenous people of Malaysia, while applying a modern twist.

A room with a view: The restaurant is located on the 48th floor of Naza Tower, offering a spectacular view over the heart of Kuala Lumpur. Floor-to-ceiling windows allow the light to stream in, adding to the bright and luxurious atmosphere of the dining room.

For the main course: Dewakan’s current tasting menu showcases all areas of Malaysia, from its farms to the mountains and the sea. Don’t miss the duck tongue dumpling with ubi kemili (an indigenous variety of potato) and pickled maman glazed with vinegar, or the bamboo shoots with salted mackerel bouillon.

Something for dessert? The meal is not complete without the three mouth-watering dessert courses. Those with a sweet tooth will particularly enjoy the bambangan sorbet with chocolate crémeux (created by the Temiar people in Melaka) and lightly toasted beetroot meringue.

About the chef: Born into a family of cooks, Teoh grew up with a knife in his hand. His grandmother would sun-dry spices on rattan weaved baskets and sell them in the city centre. His dishes are inspired by his childhood upbringing and memories of how his grandmother, aunt and mother created their signature curries. 

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