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JL Studio

Taichung

Authentic Singaporean flavours as you’ve never seen them before

On the Pass

Jimmy Lim Tyan Yaw

Cultural homage: The son of a zi char hawker stall owner, Singaporean chef Jimmy Lim Tyan Yaw remained extremely proud of his country’s heritage and cuisine long after he moved to Taiwan to follow his passion for cooking. So, when the opportunity to open his own restaurant presented itself, he overhauled the initial plans for a modern European eatery to focus on what inspired him most: the authentic flavours of his childhood.

Clear progression: Two years after opening, JL Studio was recognised as a rising star in the Asian continent, receiving the One To Watch Award 2019. It debuted into Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2020, and in August 2023, it became the first Singaporean restaurant in the world to receive three Michelin stars.

On the plate: Tradition and modernity find unique ways to combine and coexist at JL Studio. However, Lim doesn’t believe in deconstructing Singaporean street food for the sake of it — every tweak, addition or evolution has to have a meaning. The city-state’s globally famous Hainanese chicken rice, for instance, is reinvented with seasonal Taiwanese fish poached in an aromatic broth, resulting in a texture reminiscent of the original, but with an even deeper, more rounded flavour. Rice is cooked in chicken stock, made into a porridge and blended to provide the sauce, while Taiwanese peppers replace the kick of the chilli sauce.

What’s the vibe? Located on the second floor of a modern complex in Taichung’s Qiqi district, the all-wood dining room has a minimalist, sophisticated feel accentuated by earth tones and statement lights.

And for dessert? Lim’s version of Singapore's breakfast staple, kaya roti – a meal of toast with coconut jam, soft-boiled eggs and coffee – is as delightful as it is eye-catching. Served in an edible egg shell made from frozen kaya (coconut spread), it features coconut ice cream, salted butter foam, coffee powder and a hint of the unmistakeable flavour of burnt toast.

Bonus point: At the age of six, Lim was already considered a gourmet because he was a fan of the fish heads in his father’s signature curry. In Chinese culture, those who know how to appreciate fish eyes, jaws and lips are said to be epicures.

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