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Sorn

Bangkok

Pure Thai fire that burns with delight

On the Pass

Supaksorn Jongsiri

Heritage on a plate: Supaksorn 'Ice' Jongsiri, Sorn's chef-patron, grew up in close contact with his grandmother’s southern cooking. It is why Ice does not only cook southern Thai food, but also transforms the flavours and memories of his encounters with diverse southern Thai cultures into a one-of-a-kind innovative cuisine. His thought process is mind-bending and his flavouring explosive, with no compromise on chilli heat and spice.

What’s the vibe? Sorn is allegedly the most difficult restaurant to book in Thailand and one of the good reasons why is its impeccable service. Its front-of-house team is trained to effectively communicate the stories and memories that the chef puts into every dish. Through each bite, you will be inspired by Ice’s love and passion for the south.

How does it work? Every dish served at Sorn is highly temperature sensitive. It’s something Ice pays special attention to, and his kitchen brigade delivers every dish at an incredible tempo – so, don’t take too long photographing them. By controlling the temperature of his dishes, Ice is able to create a gustatory sequence that cleverly adds an unthought-of dimension to Thai cuisine.

On the menu: Kan Chu Piang (gems on crab stick) is Sorn’s version of Kan Chiang Pu (blue swimmer crab leg), arguably the most fought over part of the crabs at any Thai dinner table. In the nation’s households, this part is reserved for the most senior or the most beloved of the family. At Sorn, you become that beloved child for one day. The dish is a marriage of the two most valued parts of the crab: crab roe and swimmer leg. The plump and juicy meat is served chilled and coated thoroughly with crab roe paste inside a little granite mortar. Inside the mortar is piquant orange chilli sauce to dip it in and eat it like a lolly.

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