Fismuler

Madrid, Spain

We have a duo of ex-El Bulli chefs to thank for Fismuler, which opened in Salamanca in 2016. It was followed by a Barcelona outpost two years later, by which time a third El Bulli alumnus had come aboard to make it a hat-trick. Elements of the unorthodox brilliance that made the Catalonian mothership such a hit are in evidence here: going far beyond “industrial-chic”, the restaurant takes up a scruffy corner unit on the noisy Calle de Sagasta with not so much as a cushion to soften its rough concrete edges. Not that this is any deterrent, with diners packing out its big tables to feast on multi-course sharing plates of hearty seasonal fare, it's the Spanish equivalent of a Greek taverna meze. Potato omelette; Navarrese white asparagus; smoked eel; baked hake; marinated stingray with Ibérico sofrito and Navarra piparras chilli peppers… thick and fast they come, the no-nonsense service and lack of pretension only adding to the pleasure. Arrive hungry.

Key Information

Location

Calle de Sagasta 29, Salamanca, Madrid, 28004