Casa Julián

Tolosa, Spain

Slink within the hide-hued doors of Casa Julián to enter a land devoted to steak. You’ll know you’re in the right place when a scan of the tumbledown room reveals low cavernous ceilings, racks of old wine bottles on the walls and concrete floors. It’s a scene rich with the patina of bygone years – a vignette little-changed since it opened back in 1954. At the heart is the parrilla grill. Stuff of legend and longing for those from afar, a quotidian pleasure for the regulars. The open fire spits and sizzles, laden with huge, thick, fat-craddled, salt-crusted txuleta – the bone-in rib of former Galician dairy cows. It’s the pinnacle of authentic Basque Country cooking, affording unrivalled depth of flavour and a benchmark for grilled meat worldwide. King of the grill, Xabi Gorrochategui, tends to each cut for 15 minutes before slicing tableside – if the whiff of the meat is too much temptation, best to nibble from the truncated starters while you wait: jamón Ibérico and Navarra white asparagus is always a win. A tray of piping-hot roasted peppers and a good glug of red are the only accompaniments to the main event. And note: it’s a case of eat rare or don’t eat here. You've been warned.

Key Information

• Average price per person $61
• Lunch: Tues – Sun Dinner: Fri – Sat Annual closing: Aug
• +34 943 67 14 17
• Visit Casa Julián's Website

Location

Sta. Klara Kalea, 6 , Tolosa, Basque Country, 20400