Passalacqua

Lake Como

A sumptuous Lake Como retreat made for enjoying la dolce vita

In a nutshell: Set in an 18th-century villa whose former premises housed Pope Innocent XI, this Milanese-designed gem has played host to an aristocratic roll call of occupants, from Count Andrea Lucini-Passalacqua and composer Vincenzo Bellini to the current owners, the De Santis family. Set within spectacular terraced gardens and with just 24 rooms, the boutique hotel showcases the finest Italian craftsmanship in a riot of ornate Baroque elegance. All this comes together in a sublime retreat – almost like a private home – that makes the most of this truly magical lakefront location: just what you’d expect of the winner of The World’s Best Hotel in 2023.

Setting the scene: From its perch amid private grounds in Moltrasio, the hotel’s individually designed rooms are spread across three buildings: the main villa, the eight-room Palazz (housed in the former stables with original exposed beams) and the four-suite Casa al Lago down by the lake. Inside, Italian craftsmanship abounds with original frescoes and ceiling carvings that are further embellished with gilded mirrors, 19th-century portraits, lacquered antique tables, Murano chandeliers and Il Bronzetto light fittings. Outside, seven acres of perfectly manicured terraced gardens with olive groves, mimosa, roses and magnolia lead to the seductive pool terrace, which is dotted with vibrant JJ Martin-designed parasols that add a modern, fashionable flair to the otherwise classic opulence.

Food and drink: In contrast to the rest of the hotel’s extravagant glamour, the food here is a simple and relaxed affair with an open kitchen that guests can wander into and chat to chef Viviana Varese as if in a private home. Honest, unfussy dishes make the most of local, seasonal ingredients and can be eaten anywhere on property, including the terrace, which is also the best spot from which to enjoy an aperitif as you soak up the sublime lake vistas. 

Boats, baths and beyond: If you need a rest after a day on the lake with Passalacqua’s boatman, Beppe, or from zipping around the property on the hotel’s bright orange Spiaggina (a vintage open-top Fiat 500), the spa awaits. The soaring vaults and romantic columns of the ground floor hall in the Palazz are home to an atmospheric wellness space that leads to a hidden subterranean passageway that houses Passalacqua’s sauna and steam bath. There are also complimentary daily activities from flower arranging courses to gelato-making classes to keep you busy.

50 Best defines a boutique hotel as having fewer than 50 rooms and not being part of a large chain or group. It must be a design-driven property, showcasing personalised service and idiosyncratic features unique to its destination. The hotel placed highest on the list that fits all the criteria becomes the winner of the Carlo Alberto Best Boutique Hotel Award.

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