The theme at the recent #50BestTalks in London was ‘Bring The Magic!’, with hospitality leaders explaining and exploring how to make their guests feel beyond special. In this extract, keynote speaker Birgit Reitbauer – one half of the couple who have made Vienna restaurant Steirereck as adored by international gourmets as by its long-standing regulars – charts the team’s intimate relationship with diners over 50 years
“The wine was served in plastic jugs; the vegetables came in cans. Today, unimaginable. Then, absolutely normal.
The menu was colourful – and the guests as well. It was the time of large portions where shashlik skewers as well as rice and chips found a place on the same plate, and this at very moderate prices.
It is 1970, when the story of Steirereck and its hospitality begins as my parents-in-law came from Styria [in rural southern Austria] to take over a restaurant in Vienna. It was the time of the first regulars who, whether every Friday after tennis or Mondays with the office staff, began to visit Steirereck regularly.
Birgit Reitbauer attributes the success of Steirereck to her dedicated team
It was also in the mid-1970s that the first core of staff began to establish itself. In 1976, Adolf Schmid joined as the sommelier, faithfully assisting us for a good 42 years. He not only poured the guests good wine, but also, as a fanatical opera fan, would get involved in deep discussions about the right line-up for the performance the previous night. In 1978 Franz Auferbauer joined the team and was to serve as our maître and cigar sommelier for more than 40 years. One of his greatest experiences was when he was allowed to assemble and light a cigar for the cigar god, Zino Davidoff. In 1983 Herbert Schmid came into the house and for 25 years he steered the cheese trolley through the restaurant, as proud as if it were a Rolls-Royce.
They were the first in a whole series of great hosts who have been part of our house over the decades – and still are. All of them are not only characterised by their love for their craft and their passion for gastronomy but also, and especially, by their love and appreciation for our guests.
With the relocation of our restaurant to the Stadtpark in 2005, a new era of hosts began. Heinz and I took over the management of the restaurant and in the first few years our gastronomic life was turbulent. Not every change was received positively by the press and all the guides. It was the time of searching for our own identity because it was absolutely clear to us that, while the way of our parents was great and successful, we wanted to write our own piece of the Steirereck story.
Chef Heinz Reitbauer and his wife Birgit have managed the restaurant since 2005
One thing, however, was kind to us and ensured at least our economic success throughout this period: the loyalty of our regular guests, who came in droves and endured many a gastronomic confusion with stoic calm and composure.
The most important element they could hold onto was our team and the many familiar faces that at least stood for continuity in service and wellbeing. While we did not continue the culinary path of our predecessors, and struck out in a new direction, we recognised even then that our greatest asset was our people – the people who every day give our guests special moments, with heart and commitment.
They include Andreas, or ‘Bread Andi’, who has been driving the bread trolley since 2005 and has been able to convert even the most convinced vegetarian to Blunzenbrot [blood sausage bread]. Similarly ‘Cheese Franz’, armed with elegance and great professional competence, still makes the most mature cheeses of his trolley bestsellers. Another stalwart is Viktoria, who has acted as my right-hand woman for more than 10 years and has been mistaken several times for my daughter (a great compliment for her…) or my sister (not so great compliment for her!) and who, together with me, is at the front of the restaurant. She is tough, but with a big heart.
Steirereck ranked No.13 at The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2022 awards ceremony, which took place in London
And René who, as master of the wine cellar, has brought many conservative drinkers to new shores and always finds exceptionally fitting beverage combinations to go with Heinz's dishes. It is not Heinz and I who deserved the Gin Mare Art of Hospitality Award we received last year, but so many in our team who make Steirereck what it is. They make sure that the first-time visitor is looked after in the same way as someone we have known for many years.
In turn, they receive an incredible amount of respect and recognition from our guests. It has become a relationship of equals, where our team still is well aware of its place. However, the personal touch is what makes the hospitality at Steirereck so special.
One regular guest will be particularly remembered. Mr. M was a decades-long but irregular guest at Steirereck. Then when his wife became seriously ill, he began to come more regularly for lunch: probably to be able to escape from all the worries and needs for a few hours. He enjoyed four courses with beverage pairing, aperitif and a fine digestif to finish. After the death of his wife, this ritual was reinforced and Mr. M came daily for eight whole years – and became part of the Steirereck family during this time. Our employees even received travel guides when Mr. M found out that a vacation was coming up.
One day he did not come at his usual time for lunch, and we suspected something had happened. Through our quick action he was found in his apartment where he had suffered a stroke. He died one week later. This week at least gave us the opportunity to say goodbye. Since he had no relatives, his funeral was organised by the Steirereck team. Franz played the guitar and sang, Viki spoke a self-written poem and about 20 employees accompanied Mr. M on his last journey. Today, we drink a good glass of Champagne on his birthday and on the day of his death, and in one situation or another we will often say: “Mr. M would have liked that too!"
It is these stories that make our life in gastronomy so special: sometimes to laugh, sometimes to celebrate, sometimes to cry.
Steirereck's sommelier, Adolf Schmid, worked at the restaurant for over four decades
At the beginning of March 2020, there came turbulences which we had never expected. Suddenly our restaurant closed [due to the pandemic] and we were at an absolute standstill. Again, it was the unity and discussion within our team that brought us to new approaches. On the first day of the lockdown in Austria, we started cooking socially. Our warehouses and cold stores were full, and disposing of the goods was unthinkable, so we supplied emergency forces and the crisis team of the federal government – people who had to work while we were condemned to do nothing – with good food.
On the first day we served 550 portions and after a week we were cooking 1,300 daily. With the financial support of the federal government and by using all our own financial means, we were able to keep our 150 employees on the payroll and didn't have to lay anyone off. We continued to do this for more than two years.
We cooked not only socially but, after a few weeks, also for our Steirereck ‘Hausbesuch’ – the take-out and delivery service we set up within five days. We refined the best products of our producers, packed them and delivered them in teams through the whole of Vienna.
Bread Andi rang at the doors of our customers and radiated his charm, Viki flirted with the handsome customers and I collected a couple of fines for speeding.
Reitbauer presented at #50BestTalks: Bring The Magic alongside world-class restaurateurs, sommeliers and chefs
The most important thing at that time was the community. Not being alone, and being able to count on others, made us and our team grow even stronger together.
After each lockdown, new hurdles came our way, such as closing the restaurant at 10pm, which meant that the first guests had to arrive at 5pm, and the uncertainty of how business would be when there were no foreign guests in the country. There were a lot of unknowns that weighed on our minds.
Our fear was unfounded. Despite the lack of tourists, we were fully booked when reopening after every lockdown. The decades-long care for our local guests together with our great team paid off, and the bond between us and our guests is more special than ever. It also showed us how important it is to maintain one's own identity.
More than ever we realise how special this humanity is in our house. After all, it's about so much more than just good food and drinks – it's about being at home at Steirereck, as a guest or as a team member.”
The list of The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2022, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, was announced on Monday 18th July at a live awards ceremony in London. To stay up to date with the latest news, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and YouTube.
