Natural wines, once a niche choice, are now a global phenomenon – celebrated for their eco-friendly ethos and pure, grape-driven flavours. Explore the bars backing the trend.
Once a secret shared among a handful of clued-up wine bars, natural wines have exploded in popularity, earning pride of place on menus from Spain to Sydney. These bottles aren’t just about eco-bragging rights, they’re an homage to the spirit of the grape and the land it comes from. Pull up a pew at these unmissable bars and uncover the wild world of natural wine.
Underdog, Austin
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This stylish Austin spot is dedicated to two wonderfully compatible yet complex things: Korean-inspired food made with local Texan ingredients, and a whole lot of natural wine. The constantly-rotating, globe-trotting list here showcases the work of wine producers that are committed to sustainability – such as biodynamic Jura producer Stéphane Tissot and Champagne Domaine La Borderie. France features extensively, naturellement, but expect to find hidden gems from further afield too, and there are plenty of sparkling delights to explore, from French fizz to lambrusco and prosecco. Bubbles provide the perfect foil for the dishes on offer, think fried oysters with yangnyeom glaze, short rib ssam with pickles and the best fried chicken in the state.
Wineshop Flow, Tokyo
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Once you’ve located the entrance to this hidden wine shop and bar, you’ll find yourself in a beautiful, wood-clad space that couldn’t be a more perfect setting for a glass or two of natural wine. Fortunately, there’s no shortage of that here, with a global selection that includes the likes of Weingut Fidesser from Austria, to Clos Santa Ana in Chile. Take a seat at one of the communal tables, pair your selection with something from the concise menu of small plates and cheeses, and then grab a bottle from the wine shop to take away with you. If you need to brush up on your natural wine knowledge, Wineshop Flow also hosts regular wine tasting and winemaker events to supercharge your skills.
10 William St, Sydney
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Don’t let the diminutive dimensions of this restaurant and wine bar deceive you – the offering at Sydney’s 10 William St is extensive, both in size and scope. Natural is the name of the game here, with a list that showcases the full spectrum, with wines from established players like Nicolas Joly, to well-oxidised offerings from the Jura, and everything in between. This is also an excellent place to explore Australia’s contributions to the natural wine scene, with plenty of local bottles from the likes of Bertrand Bespoke, Defialy, Carto Wines and more to choose from. And if all of that wasn’t enough, there’s a concise list of classic cocktails, a curated list of beer, cider and mead, and a trio of sakes to sample too.
Publik, Cape Town
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This neighbourhood Cape Town bar is all about keeping things local as part of a mission to support independent producers from the surrounding area. Publik’s compelling selection consists of sustainable, minimal-intervention wines from smaller producers, mostly organic, biodynamic or natural, and invariably made in limited quantities. Sip wines from native producers such as Mullineux, Crystallum, and even, if you’re lucky, a Paardeberg chenin from head bartender Domenic “Dom” Bodenstein. There’s arguably no better place to learn about the cutting-edge of Cape wine, with a glass of something interesting alongside stellar charcuterie and cheese, all in a welcoming and decidedly laid-back setting. Keep an eye out for the occasional guest chef pop-up, as well as winemaker evenings in the bar.
Angelita, Madrid
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Madrid’s Angelita, in the city centre, has something for everyone, with a dining room serving an impressive menu of classic and contemporary dishes, and a basement bar serving ‘gastro cocktails’. If you’re here for natural wine, though, the no-reservations ground-floor wine bar is where it’s at, with a staggering 2,000 bottles on the roster, 60 of which are available by the glass. Expect light, ethereal whites from Bruyere & Houillon in the Jura and dark-fruit rich red from Pierre Gonon in Saint-Joseph, and many more. Sommelier David Villalón, the custodian of this encyclopaedic collection, runs the venue together with his brother Mario, who takes care of the cocktails downstairs. As with the wine list, the cocktails favour an approach rooted in minimal intervention.
Loup Bar, Mexico City
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This Roma Norte wine bar is all about the finer – and more sustainable – things in life. Wines are selected for the list here with the vineyard in mind, which means bottles that have been produced using sustainable, environmentally friendly methods. Think Gräfin orange wine from Austria’s Weingut Sepp & Maria Muster or salmon-pink, delicate Le Vilain Gris Pétillant from Lucy Margaux in Australia’s Adelaide Hills. Wine director Gaëtan Rousset is behind this impressive collection, while Joaquín Cardoso oversees the food. As with the wine, the priority here is the use of ingredients produced in ways that respect the environment. The menu runs the gamut from lighter options, like croquetas and tostadas, to wagyu burgers and seared flank steaks. There’s a selection of Mexican agave spirits too, as well as a compact line-up of cocktails including mezcal margs and vermouth spritzes.
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