By putting its people, producers and the planet above all else, this fun and funky restaurant in Berlin has gained a reputation for way more than its food and drink. Find out why Nobelhart & Schmutzig owner and sommelier Billy Wagner and culinary creative director Micha Schäfer took home the Sustainable Restaurant Award at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024
There was a time, not so long ago, when ‘reduce, reuse, recycle’ seemed enough. But not anymore.
For Billy Wagner, owner and sommelier at Berlin funhouse Nobelhart & Schmutzig, it’s always been part of his DNA to do whatever he can to look after more than just his business. Wagner won’t be doing any of this quietly, calling the restaurant’s style ‘vocally local’. But that refers to way more than just ingredients in the kitchen: Nobelhart is on an educational mission as well as a culinary one.
“When we opened our doors in February 2015, we did so with the ambition of placing our local food producers in the spotlight,” says Wagner. “That remains true to this day. An evening at Nobelhart & Schmutzig isn’t about pomp and circumstance. It is all about the people without whom our cuisine would not exist: people whose approach to farming we see as exemplary in its responsibility, sustainability and uncompromising quality.”
Looking beyond what’s on the plate, Wagner and culinary creative director – the artist formerly known as head chef – Micha Schäfer have crafted a space where the welfare of each individual in the team is paramount. Sustainability for “Germany’s most political restaurant” isn’t just about the produce, which importantly is all sourced within 250km of Berlin’s city limits, it’s about the impact the establishment has on everyone and everything it touches.
Nobelhart & Schmutzig has got rid of the “dead end dishwashing job,” with chefs rotating through the position
The triangle of humanity
This year, Nobelhart & Schmutzig has further focused on its people, developing an innovative and important Guide of Conduct to provide staff with a secure and safe work environment. Such things can sometimes be twee and patronising and only be given a cursory glance during onboarding, but the guide manages to strike a great balance of clear, warm and approachable language, inspiring a culture of growth.
Schäfer says, “My job as a creative director is to create dishes. And it's our job, our team's job, to translate that into a great experience. But all of that works much better when everyone is not overworked and everyone is treated with respect – and when everyone has been mentored and supported, and where we can learn the things that we were never taught to begin with.”
The Guide also makes a commitment to investing time and money in diversity coaching, conducting workshops, suggests further reading and provides an independent contact – “not an HR department which protects the company,” adds Schäfer – for those wanting to discuss issues anonymously. Going one step further, Nobelhart has even removed the “dead end dishwashing job”, with all the chefs now rotating in this position to keep things fair.
“We all have a part to play in being the change we want to see,” continues Wagner. “All of us can make a difference. As businesses and employers, we’re able to impact a great many things and we can either do this well and with intention, or we can keep burning through people and resources, like our industry has for a long time."
All the restaurant's ingredients are sourced from within 250km of Berlin
Power to producers
Outside of the immediate team at Nobelhart & Schmutzig, the care extends to producers. The restaurant has brought in a new sous chef position intended to help widen its network of suppliers and allow the team to react quicker to nature – such as when a product has reached the perfect degree of ripeness and flavour – to help reduce waste. This position also includes time for the employee to head out into nature and forage responsibly.
“What matters to us – and what we hope you will take from your evening at Nobelhart – is that our priority lies in treating our environment and fellow human beings with care and respect,” says Wagner. “That includes providing our team with good working conditions and a decent wage. It goes without saying that this also extends to our producers, the true stars of an evening at Nobelhart: we want you to know who’s behind your ayran [salted yogurt drink] and your asparagus.”
To enable producers to grow their businesses, Nobelhart help with projects, including co-financing a breeding station for chicken farmer Lars Odefey, which means he can breed heritage chickens, and financing a fermentation room for herb gardener Olaf Schnelle. Around 90 per cent of Nobelhart’s menu is now vegetarian and any animal products it does use come from farmers with high welfare standards. It ensures the whole animal is used with no waste by sharing with other restaurants across Berlin.
Furthermore, in a bold move that speaks of its genuine commitment to sustainability, the restaurant no longer serves fish or seafood as it can’t guarantee supply chain transparency.
People, producers and the planet are all looked after at Nobelhart & Schmutzig
Care in the community
Naturally, partnerships with small businesses and non-profits that share the restaurant’s values are sought out. Nobelhart sources beeswax candles made by a community of people with disabilities in Seewalde, participates in the 'Suppe mit Sinn' campaign (€1 for each prix fixe menu is given), donated €2,500 to the Berliner Tafel food bank and takes part in the yearly ‘Wir haben es Satt’ demonstration promoting change in the food and agriculture industries.
If you’re in Berlin, perhaps you noticed the collection of vulvas at Nobelhart. Local artists are paid to display their projects, which often have a powerful message – including Vulvae, #feeltheV, Florian Auer and more – in the restaurant’s front window.
The effort is truly holistic. Napkins are sewn from old bedsheets and tablecloths, staff uniforms crafted from old garments, wine corks recycled into insulation, old wine carafes purchased from flea markets and broken crockery repaired.
"As the SRA [Sustainable Restaurant Association] itself stresses, there is no such thing as perfection when it comes to sustainability. What we’ve achieved did not happen overnight – we’ve taken many small and some bigger steps along the way and that’s what we’ll continue doing. Of course, we’re also going to work on integrating concrete recommendations from our Food Made Good audit," Wagner says.
"Beyond that, I want to work on fostering a new generation of 'sustainability multipliers'. I find it important to make sure that everyone working at Nobelhart now has a deep understanding of what sustainability is all about, so that they will be able to carry it forward into their future roles and projects."
Everything from artwork to wine corks has sustainability in mind
Noble, hard and filthy
Nobelhart & Schmutzig, which translates to ‘noble, hard and filthy’, lives and breathes its name. In Wagner’s words: “Noble, because we serve up produce of excellent quality. Our ‘vocally local’ cuisine proves that there is much to be discovered beyond foie gras, lobster or turbot – and since we’re not exactly known to make compromises, you might think this a little hard(core). Finally, we also love to make sure your glass doesn’t go empty. And that’s when things might just get filthy…”
Perhaps there’s another take: noble, because the restaurant is embracing sustainability in every way; hard, as it’s certainly not easy to throw everything so wholeheartedly into considering the environment in all your business decisions; and filthy – well, there’s no arguing with Wagner on his assessment there.
The list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024 was announced at a live awards ceremony on Wednesday 5 June from Las Vegas. To stay up to date with the latest news, follow us on Instagram, Facebook, X and YouTube, and sign up to our newsletter.
