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Nobelhart & Schmutzig

Berlin

Hyper-local, producer-defined cuisine in an irreverent setting

On the Pass

Micha Schäfer

In a nutshell: Describing itself as ‘vocally local’ and ‘Germany’s most political restaurant’, Nobelhart & Schmutzig has been committed to serving only ingredients from the greater Berlin region since it opened in 2015. Owner-sommelier Billy Wagner and chef Micha Schäfer present a six-course dinner with a side order of fun.

On the menu: With a passion for championing the people behind the food, Nobelhart & Schmutzig lists the name of the producer against each menu item, turning the focus from chef to farmer. There’s no foie gras here – instead you’ll find white beans with lovage and heggelbach cheese and local lamb with leeks and potato.

What’s in a name? The restaurant’s title breaks down into three different words – Nobel [Noble], reflecting its intentions and uncompromising quality; Hart [Hard], because it ‘turns hard in the middle’; and Schmutzig [Filthy], because of owner Billy Wagner’s naughty sense of fun.

No cameras allowed: Wagner and his front of house team, led by restaurant manager Juliane Winkler, have a strict no-photos policy, encouraging all guests to disconnect from everyday life and immerse themselves in the dining experience, connecting with the flavours of the region.

Bonus point: In its efforts to create a modern, equitable and good workplace, in 2023 the restaurant's team came up with a pioneering guide of conduct, covering everything from rules of communication to how to deal with sexual harassment and what might constitute discrimination.

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