Nusara

Bangkok

Gin Mare Art of Hospitality Award 2024

Colourful plates telling a story of family love and heritage

On the Pass

Chef Ton and Chaisiri Tam

Pastry Chef

May Duangjai

Big name, small venue: Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn is one of the hottest chefs in Asia, having recently led his first Bangkok restaurant, Le Du, to the No.1 position in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023. Nusara, which he opened in 2020 alongside his brother Chaisiri ‘Tam’ Tassanakajohn, honours the memory of their beloved grandmother, whom it’s also named after. The snug dining room, which can only accommodate around 10 guests, quickly became one of the most sought-after reservations in town.

Culinary style: Passionate about highlighting his country’s ingredients, at his second fine-diner Tassanakajohn draws inspiration from his family’s recipes as well as cook books from the royal kitchens of King Rama V, who ruled Thailand from 1868 to 1910. But with the chef’s mind firmly focused on the future, the result is a singular brand of modern Thai cuisine that blends history with innovation. It’s much like the vibrant neighbourhood it calls home, where ancient markets and famous Buddhist temples stand side-to-side with contemporary architecture on the banks of the Chao Phraya River.

Notable dishes: The hyper-colourful blue swimming crab curry has become one of the restaurant’s most recognisable plates, served on a crispy betel leaf with horseshoe crab roe. The punchy, spicy starter is the perfect introduction to a meal that majors on classic Thai flavours reimagined with extra oomph and a modern touch. Mains are served family-style, as is the country’s tradition, so prepare to be overwhelmed by a variety of flavours: smoked chicken green curry, river prawn with pineapple, melt-in-the-mouth short ribs, delicate beef dumplings and plentiful seasonal greens.

Come for the food, stay for the service: Chef Ton’s brother, Tam, is Nusara’s maître d’ as well as its sommelier, and his experience and masterful touches shine throughout the meal. Guests are welcomed at the swanky downstairs cocktail bar, Nuss, before being led to the first-floor dining room with views of the historical Wat Pho temple complex – even better enjoyed from the terrace with an after-dinner cocktail. The personable, precise and sophisticated experience has earned Nusara the Gin Mare Art of Hospitality Award 2024.

Bonus point(s): The siblings also run casual restaurant Baan and a natural wine bar that serves great pad thai, called Mayrai, both in Bangkok; plus Samut, a fine dining restaurant located in Phuket, and Niras, a high-end Thai eatery in Hong Kong.