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Crony

Tokyo

A sanctuary for sustainable French-meets-Japanese dining

Friendship focus: Opened in December 2016 by chef Michihiro Haruta and sommelier Kazutaka Ozawa, Crony was born from their shared vision of combining culinary artistry with sustainable practices. The pair’s 15-year friendship serves as the foundation for nurturing connections with local farmers, fishers and food purveyors, reflected in the venue’s name, which roughly translates as ‘a lifelong friend with whom you could drink tea’. This same ethos is mirrored in the connection between team and guests, who are welcomed into the two-story home in which the cozy Scandinavian-designed restaurant is housed. Greeted by a fully open kitchen, guests can feel the synchronised movements of the dynamic kitchen through sights, smells and sounds.

Sustainability as a core tenet: Crony’s proactive attitude towards food waste reduction embodies the venue’s overarching dedication to sustainability. The restaurant also avoids juvenile fish and vulnerable species, opting instead for sustainably farmed seafood; utilises only naturally harvested Tosa no Shiomaru salt; and supports bee farmers to encourage increased pollination. Furthermore, techniques such as fermentation and the use of imperfect vegetables highlight the creative approach to ingredient selection and preparation while minimising carbon footprint.

On the Pass

Michihiro Haruta

Less is more: Using a concept of subtraction, Crony keeps ingredients to a minimum, instead honouring their inherent range of flavours. Through fermentation, roasting, and pickling, the team showcases ingredient latitude, culminating in plates that intertwine various expressions of a single ingredient. Case in point, a cup of tea serves as a welcome drink, bestowing upon each guest the ‘crony’ friendship title. At the meal’s conclusion, an ice cream is crafted from the same seasonal Japanese tea leaves – using a second and third brew – thereby minimising waste while engaging the senses.

Crossing cultures: Chef Haruta – who has spent time in the kitchens of renowned restaurants Ledoyen in Paris, Kadeau in Copenhagen and Saison in San Francisco – applies French, Scandinavian and North American techniques to Japanese ingredients. As a French restaurant, Crony offers more than 500 wine varietals, from Old World to New.

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