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Estro

Hong Kong

Modern, stylish Neapolitan cooking in Central

What’s the story? Chef Antimo Maria Merone was born in Naples and moved to Hong Kong in 2012 to work at the now-shuttered Italian fine dining outpost, L’Altro. After a stint as executive chef of Macau’s 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana outlet, Merone returned to Hong Kong in 2021 to open Estro. His first solo venture, it is an opportunity to showcase modern renditions of the foods of his Neapolitan hometown.

What’s the vibe like? It’s all about flowing lines and serene autumnal tones inside the André Fu-designed space in Hong Kong’s Central district. Tables are a white linen affair, but primary colour pop up via murals and eccentric patterned wallpapers to give the space unique character. Its style of service follows suit, offering classic, attentive hospitality while aptly avoiding any pretentiousness. 

On the Pass

Antimo Maria Merone

The standout dish: The bottoni course is one of the chef’s most distinctive and tinkered-with creations. The stuffed pasta, shaped like a button, changes from season to-season depending on the best produce available. Whether filled with buffalo robiola cheese and morels or piped with a parmesan emulsion and finished with a saffron glaze, it is guaranteed to satisfy.

Other highlights: The bread game is strong. A selection of different loaves comes alongside a quadruple of olive oil varietals with varying scales of fruitiness and spice. A plate of reef squid comes cut into delicate strands mimicking a nest of pasta in a bright almond and lemon sauce, with a little caviar to finish.

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