27
Shanghai
Fun, yet formal: There are white tablecloths, avant-garde Chinese art-decorated walls in crimson and onyx hues and gloved service, yet Ling Long diverges from the modern Chinese fine dining trend in that the meal follows a whimsical path, leading guests further down the (white) rabbit hole. The level of tongue-in-cheek eccentricities build throughout, resulting in each course more imaginative than the last.
Grounded in umami: The ever-changing set menu orbits around the concept of xian (umami). The aim is to re-create a cross-China journey over eight courses, pulling inspiration from regional tastes and their unique terroirs.
Jason Liu
Eleven Li
What’s on a plate? A cohesively designed experience that is at once nostalgic and ingenious, the menu weaves through inventive dishes such as ultra-crisp fried tung feng chicken, served with preserved vegetables, or the signature fish maw with parmesan, where the bouncy maw arrives in a complex broth, topped with a crisp and umami-rich cheese wafer. Meals finish with a showcase of Chinese honey through the Bees and Butterflies Playing in Spring course, made with a combination of fruity varietals and fermented sour honey from numerous local bee species.
Who’s the chef? Humble and soft-spoken, executive chef and partner Jason Liu has more than 10 years of culinary experience under his belt (despite being in his late twenties). At sixteen, he began at Grand Hyatt Taipei, working up the ranks while simultaneously attending Taiwan Kai-Ping Culinary School. He cut his teeth at Taipei's Café Bellini Dunnan, Paris 1930 and at Bistro 3 as the chef and owner, before opening Ling Long Beijing in 2019 and then Ling Long Shanghai in March 2023.