Harry Sasson

Bogotá

Champion of Colombian biodiversity, indigenous ingredients and sustainable practices

The emergence of Colombia as a gastronomic force over recent decades goes hand in hand with the ever-growing influence of the country’s premier culinary figure. Harry Sasson may have started his career as a humble kitchen assistant back in the 1980s, but the now-55-year-old is a chef, restaurateur, TV personality, campaigner, fundraiser, food ambassador and, yes, icon, in his home country and beyond.

Perhaps Sasson’s greatest weapon is his ability to break down borders through food: he brought international elements to Bogotá’s nascent dining scene at his eponymous flagship in the Noughties, and then helped promote Colombian ingredients, recipes and talent on the global stage.

Over his career, he has seen his country shift from a conflict-ravaged pariah state deemed unsafe for most tourists, into a Latin American hotspot known for its exciting and fast-developing restaurant scene. And Sasson can take plentiful credit for helping fuel that journey.

Born in 1969, he felt the lure of the kitchen from an early age, working across restaurants and hotels in his home city before heading to Canada to expand his experience and possibilities. After returning to Bogotá, he opened his first place, H.Sasson Wok & Satay Bar, in 1995; its success led to a string of openings in the Colombian capital, ranging from a bakery to a steak restaurant, a casual bistro to a cocktail bar.

But it was the opening of Harry Sasson that cemented his reputation as Colombia’s culinary king. Housed in a historic mock Tudor townhouse with a striking glass-and-steel extension at the rear, the upmarket two-storey restaurant blends Colombian favourites with Japanese and European components: think pides and arepas, a mozzarella counter and wok-fried dishes alongside robata-grilled meats.

It rapidly became Bogotá’s premier dining destination, complete with a vast globe-trotting wine selection, but without ever losing a feeling of accessibility, in part due to the warmth of its service team. The restaurant has featured in numerous editions of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants since the regional ranking’s inception in 2013 – and in 2017, Sasson was proud to help host the annual 50 Best event programme in Bogotá for the first time.

An engaging and energetic figure, Sasson has appeared regularly on TV cooking shows in his country, as well as writing a range of newspaper and magazine columns and publishing cookbooks, further raising his popularity. And he has used that profile as a force for good in multiple areas.

First, he has promoted Colombian biodiversity, indigenous ingredients, sustainable practices, both at home and across the world; there’s an entire section of the menu at Harry Sasson dedicated to the local chontaduro, or heart of palm. He has also used his mini restaurant empire to develop and nurture local talent, whether it be in the kitchen or dining room.

Most significantly, perhaps, has been the creation – alongside his wife, Cristina Botero – of the Fundación Corazón Verde. The non-profit organisation, founded more than 20 years ago, runs a host of initiatives aimed at raising funds for the families of those directly affected by the armed conflict that overshadowed Colombia for so many years, reaching out to remote parts of the country. It stages the annual Alimentarte gastronomic festival and event series to raise funds for its activities, while promoting Colombian cuisine in the process. It’s a win-win, masterminded by the winner of the Woodford Reserve Icon Award 2024 in Latin America.

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